Day 31 Saturday 27/5/17
Our last morning with Mark and Jayne, it has been a great interlude in our road trip, a chance to chill with friends and to recharge the batteries. After breakfast we were on the road about 9:40, top down and heading north towards Valencia. Benitachell was our most southerly point this trip so we are essentially homeward bound from here. We drove top down using the route national and then the autovia as we turned west towards Madrid. The coast was cloudy but the day brightened as we drove inland and we were soon basking in bright sunshine and 26C as we drove inland. Once we left the autovia on the way towards Cuenca we pulled offroad- a challenge in the little BMW - and drove to a point where we could stop in the shade of a tree (memories of wadi trips). After our picnic lunch Kay drove the last leg to Cuenca and the Parador where we were to stay tonight
Off-road for our coffee stop!
The Parador at Cuenca where we stayed
The Parador is very nice, the building was a convent and the building is structured around a quiet and airy courtyard. It is easy to imagine nuns passing quietly about their business through this tranquil setting.
The view up the hill from our bedroom
The view down from that hill - our window is between the trees!
View from the hotel door
After settling into our room we set off to explore the Cuidad Alta of Cuenca, this is the old high town which has the remnants of a 12th century castle, a gothic cathedral with a horrendous 19th century façade and the amazing Casa Colgadas or hanging houses. We crossed an iron suspension bridge from the Parador side of the gorge to the city side, which caused Kay some disquiet. As we crossed the bridge we had a great view of the hanging houses with their wooden balconies literally hanging out over the gorge, they date from the 16thC and although there were once many of them only three now remain.
The Cuidad Alta is a warren of little streets and alleys with a large central plaza, Placa Mayor. We roamed all through the streets and out of town to a viewpoint above the gorge. Then it was time for some refreshments so over the next couple of hours we had a beer and some tapas or pinchos at three different cafes and bars. At the last bar, Las Tortugas, we sat at the top corner of the Placa Mayor under cantilevered umbrellas, shaded from the sun. The staff were having a bit of an issue with the umbrellas du to the wind and then at one point a sudden gust blew them both over. One went over the wall and fell 5 metres into the alley below. Very fortunately no one was walking there at the time. The other perched perilously on top of another wall and I helped one of the staff take it down and stow it away.
Back to the hotel for a chill and freshen up then back across the bridge for our evening entertainment which was some people watching and then dinner at Taverna Albero which Kay had identified as a nice place from Tripadvisor reviews. And she was right, the whole meal was an adventure. The menu was only available in Spanish, only one member of staff spoke any English and that was hardly more then my almost non existent Spanish.
Our wine, cheese and ham
Whilst working out the menu we order a bottle of Rioja and were then told that it came with a plate of cheese and salami, which was a lovely surprise. After that we had a simple main course, I had a tomato salad with black garlic and tuna whilst Kay had a dish of meatballs with a carrot sauce, both were delicious.
The waiter then brought a small pouring vessel of Resoli which is a Cuenca liquor, coffee based with Anise. Kay wasn’t a great fan but I enjoyed it and even had a go at pouring it into my mouth from the spout, when Katy saw the photographs she commented that I hadn't fully extended my arm!!!
The whole meal cost only EUR39 which was an absolute bargain. We had so enjoyed the meal and the great staff who had worked with us through the language barrier that we gave them EUR50 and they seemed genuinely pleased. A final walk through the old town and across the bridge then a good night’s sleep in the big comfy beds in our room in the Parador.
Benitachell to Cuenca 189 Miles. total trip distance 3307 Miles.