Friday, 30 September 2022

Madrid to Cordoba - Day 33

We left the hotel about 9.30 heading for Cordoba, with no expectations other than a long drive down the motorway to Cordoba. Like yesterday there was no real viable alternative non motorway route. However for the most part the motorway was reasonably quiet, we drove with the top down (a coolish 13.5 degs!) and we were able to appreciate the scenery around us. We spotted at least 3 more Osbourne Bulls, and we were obviously in  Don Quixote country with the classic Spanish windmills to be seen.






Needing a break about 11.30 I suggested to Howard we explore the town of Valdepenas, as it would appear to be in the heart of wine country, and so it turned out. Castilla La Mancha is the largest wine producer in the whole of Europe and it produces half the wine of Spain. The total area planted to vines is 29, 600 hectares. Valdepenas is a wealthy little town, with Lacoste and Tommy Hilfiger in the shops, an impressive boulevard entering the town, a wealthy cathedral, and nice cafes (it was chilly though - 13.5 degrees) 


It’s wide poplar lined boulevard, with huge wine vats down both sides as well - my photo does not do it justice.


We had a wander, a cup of coffee, peeked into the cathedral, and found that the town is on the Don Quixote route, thus there were a statue or two of him. We purchased some of the local wine and were on our way again by 12.45
An impressive trompe d’oeil on on of the town walls

Don Quixote



Our coffee spot

Don Quixote’s armour 


We drove on again for another couple of hours into hillier country, full of grapes and olive trees, into Andalucía. Grape harvesting was in full swing. High mountains to the south were also visible but again the camera doesn’t do the views justice.





Once in Cordoba it took sometime to locate our apartment and parking (the streets are sooo narrow) but once we were in we were very pleased with our little apartment. We did a bit of shopping for tea, and then I went out to explore. Howard joined me later and we had a rooftop drink.
It’s a tough old life! 


Look up - the bar was on this roof overlooking the square

And finally a couple of drinks at this little local bar before heading home


 Daily drive 239 miles

Total trip 4050 miles

Thursday, 29 September 2022

Zaragoza to Madrid - Day 32


We left Zaragoza about 11am and headed down the motorway to Madrid - Madrid being a stop over only, on our was to Cordoba. We were keen to not take the motorway but there no viable alternate route although we did come off on one longer section to drive the N road just to be part of the countryside. That took us through some nice villages and led to a off road hop to check out the extremely large sheep and goats and to take a photo of the countryside. 

The flock of huge sheep and goats we came across - of course the photo does not do them justice! 

Saw several of these griffon vultures as we drove in these empty plains





It was mostly very difficult to do anything except drive the motorway as the N road had simply been overridden by the motorway. However for the most part the motorway was quiet and seeing the countryside around was easy. We drove through mostly empty countryside with wide flat empty plains and  interesting hills around us. The height spot we got to was 1174 metres and it got down to 12 degs. We had planned to stop in Guadalajara but it was raining by this time so we drove onto to the hotel. It’s not in a pretty area - we knew that - it’s just a stop over. 

Daily drive 208 miles

Total trip 3811 miles

Wednesday, 28 September 2022

Zaragoza - Day 31

After breakfast in the hotel we set out to do Zaragoza. A visit to the Tourist Office first to get details on booking and then off we set. The fist stop was the spectacular Basilica del Pilar, which of course was huge inside. We were not allowed to take pictures inside so some are from are from the net.

On our way to the Basilica del Pilar, taken just outside our hotel



Then a quick stop into another tourist office to ask about 2 things
1) Why was the adjacent tower leaning? Answer the bricks weren’t fully set when it was built and the sun dried them out hence a leaning tower

The camera doesn’t really show it too clearly but it does lean quite a bit! 

2) More about the Roman Walls of the city. Answer? Nothing more except these are the Old Roman Walls

But by the way did we want to climb the tower in the building? It’s free so yes! And off we went! 

View to the Market

View to Basilica del Pilar

The tower we climbed

View to the River Ebro

Then a look at the Market. A very impressive building with some great stalls, very busy with the locals. We had a coffee inside enjoying the atmosphere.

The market as it was in 1903

Fully renovated it still looks stunning

One of the fish stalls - swordfish, spoots, clams etc. There were bigger and better stalls but I thought the swordfish head was worth a photo

A meat counter. Many many bits of animal were on sale. Nothing quite as dramatic as Arequipa but the sheeps head cut in half with the eye still in place was pretty dramatic! 

How it was when it was first built.

We had booked a 12.30 slot for the Palacio de la Aljaferia so we walked the 20 minutes there, through quite ordinary streets. Outside the historic centre it’s not such an attractive city. However the Palace is quite dramatic! We hired audio guides and explored this huge complex of buildings. It was built by the Moors and was called the Palace of Joy (a great name) but was then taken by the Christians and it became a Royal Palace  and now it is the seat of Aragons parliament. Because of this modern use of the building there has been a huge amount of work done to restore it to its firmer glory.











As we left we were able to enter the modern parliament, quite a contrast to the stunning older parts



After a walk back to the centre along the river bank (not developed at all we think because it will be flood plain) and a nice drink in a square we set off to find the remaining bits we’d like to explore. On the way we came across a part we had seen last night full of life and very busy - Bar Street I think it needs to be called - a plan to return tonight! 

Then we came across the Roman Theatre


But sadly the Cathedral was closed. So back to the hotel for a very late lunch sandwich and a promise to return when everything wakes up again! Back to the Cathedral de la Seo just before it closed again at 8pm.  A quick run up to see the Museum of Tapestries (all 15th century Belgian and huge) and then a quick turn around the cathedral. Both this cathedral and the Basilica are seen as the joint cathedrals of Zaragoza, and I can see why. The Basilica is huge but La Sol is big and more ornate.















After the Cathedral we headed into town to find the Bar street we had located earlier. The plan was to find somewhere nice to eat and drink something and that worked pretty well! 3 bars, 2 sets of tapas and a whole lot of buzz! The area is called El Tubo, officially called Carrer de Libertad. Great fun and a nice way to finish our time in Zaragoza. It’s been fun, and all the better for being unexpected.